Experience

Taking part in festivals while remaining off the tourist trail in a city like Bangkok can be quite easy, if you know where to look. Originally we had planned on going to Asiatique, a waterfront complex, which was said to be hosting the “big event” for Loi Krathong this year. A little bit of rain drizzle, along with thoughts of the immense crowds and horrific traffic both heading there and coming back, were more than enough to change our minds. We thought we’d just wander to something a little more local to our apartment, in the Bang Sue region of Bangkok. What we thought would be something quite small and low key turned into one of the most interesting cultural experiences I’ve had in Bangkok.

What is Loi Krathong?

Loi Krathong is festival celebrated all over Thailand, and in parts of Laos and Burma. It happens annually on the 12th full moon of the of the Thai lunar calendar (usually in mid to late November). The name Loi Krathong roughly translates to “Floating Crown”, and comes from the practice of floating crown shaped boat down the river. It’s origins are a little vague, but it may come from the ancient practice of paying respect to water spirits. Traditionally, the Loi Krathong boat is made from banana tree trunk and leaves, folded into a crown shape. They’re decorated with flowers, incense  candles and sometimes a coin as an offering. When the Loi Krathong is released into the river, or body of water, a wish is then made for good luck.

We had asked a local where we might go to release our Loi Krathong, expecting to see a few locals doing the same. As we approached Kiak Kai Pier, we were greeted with hundreds of food and souvenir stalls, vendors selling various arrangements of Loi Krathongs, from simple to very elaborate, and crowds of people all making pilgrimage to Wat Kaeo Fa Chulamani – the Buddhist temple found next to Kiak Kai Pier. I can easily say, we were pretty much the only foreigners found in the mix of the thousands of Thais there. I think I saw only one other, who may have been lost, as he was was buying discount (possibly used) shoes from one of the vendors. We followed the crowds into the temple where we were blessed by a Buddhist monk who was happily spraying passer-bys with a water soaked whisk. There was music, prayer in the temple, food vendors, and chaos all around. We traditionally walked clockwise around the temple before making our way towards the pier steps into the water where the Loi Krathongs were being released.

After lighting our insense and candle on the Loi Krathong boat, we made a wish and released it into the choppy water of the Chao Phraya. It drifted around amongst the hundreds of others nestled in the bay, before making it’s way onto the main body of water. When we came back up to ground level, we saw many others lighting Yi Peng lanterns, which coincides with the same full moon of Loi Krathong. Fireworks could be seen happening all along the river. An old restaurant and local bar are also found at the pier, so one could easily stay and enjoy all the happenings, while drinking a local cocktail or eating some delicious Thai cuisine.

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