Getting Hooked on Religion
An inside look at Thaipusam in Malaysia
Donโt have time to read the whole article?ย The best accommodation in Kuala Lumpur is Lanson Place Bukit Ceylon
๐ How to get there: Getting to Batu Caves for Thaipusam is easy.
KTM Komuter trains run 24 hours during the Thaipusam weekend (Feb 9โ12, 2025), with direct service from Kuala Lumpur city center to Batu Caves Station. The ride takes around 30โ45 minutes each way.
Best tours: Where Sidewalks End
Need more trip-planning tips? Check out our resource list below!
Experience
My Experience
Ok – just to start off I have to say Holy Cow!!! (Literally… cows are holy with Hindus)… but seriously! C-R-A-Z-Y times!! I’ve been to loads of festivals around the world, and I’d have to say that Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia has certainly topped the charts (so far) in terms of the emotions it stirred within. Thaipusam is certainly a festival which openly allows a view deep into a culture’s faith and the extremes they will go to. A very warm thank you to the Indian community in Kuala Lumpur for allowing the likes of Anthony (Man Vs Clock), Johnny (One Step 4ward) and myself to come and be part of their holy event!
I’m not sure if it would be correct in saying that I’ve been fortunate to have never experienced self-mortification before. I have piercings, after all. Perhaps I just felt more sheltered in my own beliefs that somehow this differed from the images I’d seen in National Geographic and the like, of people walking around with hooks in their backs in the name of their God(s). Regardless, seeing it still brought shivers down my spine and made the hairs on the back of my neck stand up. It wasn’t just the hooks and lances that pierced their skin, or the hypnotic trances people fell into, it wasn’t the shaving of the heads, or the random screaming and yelling. It was the culmination of the whole ceremony surrounding Thaipusam that really made the experience so enthralling.
What is the meaning of the Thaipusam festival?
Thaipusam is an annual Hindu festival that occurs in January or February. During the full moon of the Tamil month of Thai, Thaipusam holds a profound significance as devotees seek blessings from Lord Murugan, son of Lord Shiva, praying for forgiveness, good health, and serenity in the year ahead. While it is celebrated by the Tamil community in Sri Lanka, India, Singapore, and Mauritius, its grandest and most elaborate observance takes place in Malaysia.
Thaipusam is celebrated by the Tamil population. It takes on slight variations depending on where it’s occurring – one of the largest gatherings however is the pilgrimage made in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. With well over 1,500,000 people in attendance (that’s right, 1.5 MILLION!) over the course of the weekend, it’s truly a site to behold. I can easily say that regardless of how many tourists ever even find their way here, it will never surmount to even a fraction of the number of faith goers who are participating.
The preparations for the ceremony itself actually begin 48 days prior, with things such as fasting to cleanse the body. Then, on the first day of Thaipusam, there is a large ceremony in a local Hindu temple. It has moved around Kuala Lumpur a few times in it’s history, but for the past several years at the time of this publication, the ceremonies began at Sri Mahamariamman Temple in the heart of Kuala Lumpur. People join together and make offerings and pooja (putting the red ink on ones forehead). There was also several rituals involving pouring milk over hindu statues… and lots of it! As the night progresses, tens of thousands of people have already joined in the streets. Free food and water are being handed out at every turn. At the stroke of midnight on the first night, fireworks get let off in the street and music begins. A large procession starts marching with a humungous metallic shrine! Approximately 15 of the holy men from the temple are pulling it on wheels. They will carry it more than 15 kilometers through the night, and into the afternoon, all the way to Batu Caves! Many walk with them the whole way, making stops at each major Hindu temple en route.
You will see people in states of a trance, there are many rituals being acted out, with holy men blessing those who carried burdens. Lots of falling on the ground in convulsions, and being carried away by others. The culmination of all of this is climbing the 250+ stairs into Batu Caves, where many of the Kavadi are removed, and the burdens are absolved.
This ceremony goes on from late in the evening of the first full day, after the shrine has arrived, and carries on all through the night, and into the following day, before the shrine starts it’s journey back to the original temple.
SEE – Photos & Videos
To view loads of photos from each day, I’ve created separate photo essays for each:
Day 1 – Opening Ceremonies
Day 2 – The Pilgrimage
Day 3 – Rituals, Hooks and Skewers
GO – Getting There
This really couldn’t have been any easier. The city of Kuala Lumpur has recognized Thaipusam as being a very important festival, bringing in tens of thousands of visitors to the city. Their Kommuter train runs 24 hours for the whole weekend, shuttling people back and forth from the city centre, all the way to Batu Caves. The journey is about 30-45 mins each way, and only costs 2 Ringits ($0.60 USD) for a return ticket. We went several times – once at 4 am, and another time mid afternoon. Neither journey was unbearably packed, and we obtained seats in each direction. This feels miraculous for a festival with so many in attendance, but I think a big part is due to the regularity of the train’s frequency.
โ Click here to plan your trip to Kuala Lumpur
View Where Sidewalks End in a larger map
Do – Activities & Attractions
Coming Soon!
Affiliate Disclosure: Some links in this post are affiliate links, which means WSE Travel may earn a small commission if you choose to book or buy through themโat no extra cost to you. We only recommend products and services we believe can genuinely enhance your travel experience.
Stay – Accommodation
Lanson Place Bukit Ceylon
Lanson Place Bukit Ceylon is the perfect stay for Thaipusam. Guests rave about its spacious, apartment-style suites, which come with fully equipped kitchens, cozy living areas, and breathtaking city views. Many visitors love how peaceful and private the residence feels, despite being just minutes away from the bustling streets and key Thaipusam locations like Batu Caves. After a long day at the festival, you can unwind in the beautiful infinity pool, hit the gym, or simply relax in your suite with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking KLโs skyline. Book your room in advance here.
Travelogue Guest House
Travelogue Guest House offers budget-friendly stays in Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. Just a 5-minute walk to the Thaipusam procession at Sri Mahamariamman Temple, it provides easy access to key attractions and public transport. Ideal for travelers seeking convenience and affordability. Travelogue Guest House also places guests in the center of Kuala Lumpurโs shopping, dining, and entertainment district while maintaining a peaceful atmosphere for rest. Book the cheapest room here.
The RuMa Hotel & Residences
The RuMa Hotel and Residences is a cozy 5-star hotel that offers relaxation and comfort in Kuala Lumpur. Just steps from the city’s landmarks, this elegantly designed hotel offers top-notch service, stylish rooms, and excellent amenities. Guests loved its serene atmosphere, stunning interiors, and attention to detail. The pool and wellness facilities provide the perfect escape, while the location offers easy access to key attractions. A perfect retreat for Thaipusam Festival, ensuring a memorable and restful stay in the vibrant city. Book your stay in advance here.
Eat – Restaurants
Coming Soon!
Time – Seasonality & Schedules
Thaipusam happens around the full moon of the second Tamil month. This usually happens in January by Western calendars, though changes annually with the moon’s cycle.
Safety – Possible risks
Please Note: Travel inherently comes with an element of risk (just like crossing the road does). You are putting yourself in elements that are unfamiliar and foreign to your usual lifestyle and with that, become more susceptible to fall victim those who try to play off those unfamiliar to their local scams. There are also potential dangers in the environments to which you may not be accustomed to.
Please take extra care in travelling, ensure that you have adequate medical insurance (accidents seem to happen when you least expect them), and have let a trusted colleague, family member or friend know your whereabouts and activities.
Where Sidewalks End travel advises you to travel at your own risk, and to be extra aware of your surroundings (without letting it spoiling your time).
Pay – How much does it cost?
Coming Soon!
Responsible Travel – Best Practices
Coming Soon!
Reality Check – Be Aware
I’m not sure what was real about Thaipusam, or maybe more accurately… what wasn’t real. It is full on!!! I think the biggest thing to factor in is that this is NOT a circus performance. Thaipusam is a VERY holy festival. The openness is absolutely incredible of the Tamil Hindus who allow visitors to come in and observe their tradition. There were no awkward glances (save for some of those in trances, or sporadically yelling and running around) for us being there. I felt by going at 4 am, we were really the ONLY foreigners we saw there amongst the crowds. By early morning the was certainly more, but it was still sporadic. Hotels reach capacity a week or so in advance often, and even hostels were scarce, so plan in advance with reservations. Bring water – it’s hot there! You can always buy some, but I just like coming prepared… especially if you need it immediately for heat exhaustion. Watch your belongings!! In ANY big crowd around the world, pickpocketing happens. It’s a reality of the world. Keep things in a safe and hidden place on you, or where you can feel if someone is grabbing. You wouldn’t want an incredible experience such as this to be tainted by some petty theft. All food served at Thaipusam is vegetarian as well, as meat is forbidden during this holy time. It’s also all delicious. Just a heads up.
Go with an open mind, and if you’re squeamish, then try to appreciate other elements of Thaipusam other than the hooks and piercings. Talk to the locals as well. Malaysians are INCREDIBLY friendly and approachable, and hold an excellent grasp on the English language. They will tell you anything you like to know (within reason) about what you are experiencing and observing! Enjoy!
JOIN US! WSE Travel Packages
This sounds like quite the adventure, right? We thought so too! Though we realize it can be pretty intimidating to get out there into the world on your own, especially when travelling to some of these off the beaten path locations. We love it when our readers give it a shot and try it for themselves! In fact, please leave us feedback if you do!! If trying something โthisโ adventurous on your own is just a bit outside of your comfort zone, WSE Travel is here to help!
Follow this link for our โChoose Your Own Adventureโ Tours โ packages that are highly personalized and tailored at your request.
Kuala Lumpur Travel Resources
These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.
- Best Flight Deals: Trip.com โ Trip is my favorite flight search engine. It is a flight aggregator that provides travelers with the best rates on airline tickets. Its innovative search finds the best option for specific travel dates by comparing airfares offered by all major airlines and agencies. The aggregator displays final prices, without any hidden fees. They are hands down the number one place to start.
- Best Hotel Deals: Booking.com โ Booking is the best all-around hotel booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates because it compares all the other major hotel booking sites. They have the widest selection of comfortable accommodations. In all my tests, theyโve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
- Best Tour Deals: Where Sidewalks End (of course) โ WSE Travel is a boutique tour operator with specially curated tours, events, and workshops. We have many tour options available in cities in Mexico and worldwide, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, art workshops, and more!
- Best Car Rental Deals: Discover Cars – If you want to have the freedom of mobility, renting a car is an incredible option – but finding the best deal can be a nightmare! Discover Cars scans all the major car rental sites and includes all mandatory fees, taxes, and extras in the quoted price so there wonโt be any unpleasant surprises when you arrive at the rental desk.
- Best Travel Insurance Deals: SafetyWing – SafetyWing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to all your travel needs. They have cheap plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road. They even have subscriptions if you are planning long-term, without having to re-apply for each segment of your trip.
- Best E-Sim Provider: Airalo – Airalo is one of the most versatile e-sim providers I’ve ever found, offering e-sim in almost every country on earth! No need to take your home phone provider’s sim card out and risk losing it on your trip! As long as your phone has e-sim capabilities, Airalo has you covered at really good rates too, meaning you can be connected at all times on your trip!
- Best 100% Pick-pocket Proof Clothing Deals: Clever Companion โ They make clothing specifically for travel, with hidden pockets to hide your valuables. From hoodies to briefs, they cover all your clothing needs – each with hidden pockets to hide your money, wallet, and anything else you want to keep safe!
- Best Eco-Safe Travel Products: TreeTribe – This company is just awesome! From water bottles to yoga pants, wallets to bikinis, and everything in between – all their products are great quality, and eco-friendly AND they plant a tree for every purchase!
- Best Outdoor Travel Product: LifeStraw โ My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
Have you ever experienced a religious festival such as Thaipusam, where devotees did exceptional things to show their devotion? What is the largest religious gathering you’ve seen or been a part of? Would you go to the extremes devotees do at Thaipusam in the name of your own faith?
Malaysia is a fascinating intersection of religions, beyond Thaipusam, get a look into Buddhist practices by attending a Vipassana meditation in Dhamma.
Please feel free to share your stories and thoughts in the comment section below!
amazing picture and thank you for creating this article
We went to Thaipusam last year at Batu Caves….CRAZY!!!!
SOOOO crazy, right?? Have you been to the Phuket Vegetarian Festival? I’d say Thaipusam is a good stepping stone for the cray you’ll see there!
Hi, im a Malaysian, but am not a Hindu. Ive been living here all my life but what really makes me proud of being here is because of the beautiful colors of Malaysia. Malay, Chinese, Indians are living harmoniously next to each other. Im very proud of it. We share our ground together and get to learn and experience things about one another’s celebrations and holidays.
Glad you liked it here. Please come back again.
Hey CrazyCat – thanks for sharing! You have a lot to be proud of in Malaysia, as it is such a diverse and beautiful country! I love it there, and you can be sure I’ll be back many many times!
Absolutely crazy! It is fascinating how much human bodies can endure. Great pics by the way!
Thanks Tammy!! It was seriously bonkers!! I’ve never seen anything like this (outside of Nat Geo mags). Certainly a great insight into a culture I may never fully be able to understand – but try to learn more regularly.