My experience with an ancient Temazcal ceremony: What to know for 2023

My experience with an ancient Temazcal ceremony

What happens at the temazcal?

A temazcal ceremony is deeply rooted in Mexican heritage, encompassing a traditional sweat lodge experience known for its health and therapeutic benefits. Participants engage in this ancient practice by sitting within the confines of the lodge, typically guided by a spiritual leader known as a shaman or temazcalero. These ceremonies typically extend for a duration of two or more hours, providing a transformative and enriching experience.

My experience

The heat is unbearable, breathing into my hands because the air is too hot, shoulder to shoulder, I’m rocking back and forth listening to the loud chants ringing in my ears while making sure not to pass out.

I had no expectations as we organised to do a Temazcal ceremony in San Jose del Pacifico, Oaxaca. Hell, I didn’t even know what a Temazcal was. I’d heard that it was like a sauna and we would be doing some sort of ancient ceremony. It sounded like a great chance to experience an ancient tradition that has been going on for hundreds of years.

As we made the 30 minute trek through the forest, we arrived at the small house literally in the middle of nowhere. A few others from Spain, Argentina and Mexico arrived and the 10 of us were nearly ready to start.

After a small introduction we walked down to the concrete brick looking igloo about 3 meters wide and 1.5 meters high with a tiny entrance and a fire along side it cooking the rocks to a glowing red.

I was told to bring some shorts along, but as we were preparing for the start, it was looking like clothes were optional. Half of us were totally naked, men and women, some topless, and me, well I was in my board shorts not really comfortable enough to strip off in front of people I had just met.

We gathered in a tight circle in front of the entrance and our leader Paco began to recite some words that he had said a thousand times before. Then came some loud chants, as we repeated after him, following his lead. Although my Spanish at this stage wasn’t as good as now, I was starting to understand that this wasn’t going to be the relaxing type of sauna I had imagined.

One by one Paco was saying something to us, then people responded, we were asking permission to enter, by what I presume was to the gods. For a reason I’m not sure of, we had to enter backwards.

As we gathered inside on the pine needles around a small pit, it was tight, body to body. I was already starting to feel warm. Paco entered a few times with the rocks he had been cooking outside and placed them inside the pit.

It was pitch black, but you could feel the presence of everybody. Some scented water was poured onto the rocks and things really started to heat up. It was getting hard to breath. Then with a bang inside my chest started the bongos. And the loud chants from our leader. And again, we followed his lead.

Some silence, it was time to give our reason for being here. It was a cleanse. As we passed a small bunch of herbs and flowers around, we had our chance to speak. This was intense. There were a lot of tears. People were opening up about things they had held onto for so long. They were letting go. The feeling was strong. We were as one, together as total strangers.

Every time I got comfortable with the heat, more water was added to the rocks with the flowers. Another wave of suffocating air entering my lungs. My hands over my mouth was the only was to cool down the hot air I was breathing. I was feeling like I was going to black out, and at the same time I had an urge to run out the door. I needed some fresh air. We’d been inside for nearly an hour, which felt like an eternity.

A small cup of cold tea was handed around to sip. I wanted to skull the lot, and more. I was sweating litres.

The bongos started up again. There was more singing and chanting to come. The powerful energy inside the Temazcal is like nothing I’ve ever felt before. I had been taken back hundreds of years. I was a believer.

This went on for 1.5 hours, with emotions running wild. From chanting, to hardly being able to take a breath, to chanting again. As it ended we left one by one, asking for permission to leave. I couldn’t get out quick enough. I wanted some fresh air, to breath.

This Temazcal ceremony was one of the hardest 1.5 hours of my life. But once I was out, you couldn’t get the smile off my face. I felt happy, exhausted, free, relaxed, clean, fulfilled and a close bond with strangers I had only just met, and will never meet again.

Everybody was hugging and embracing each other without saying a word. We knew that we had just experienced something together and it felt amazing.

Would I do it again?? Definitely.

If you get a opportunity to do this type of Temazcal in 2023, go for it. It doesn’t even come close to anything I have ever done before and something I will never forget. One of the most incredible experiences of my life.

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Have you done the full Temazcal ceremony?? Let me know how it was for you.

I’ve also got a full write up on San Jose del Pacifico where the Temazcal was in Oaxaca.

Happy Travels!!

13 responses to “My experience with an ancient Temazcal ceremony: What to know for 2023”

  1. Rosie

    My boyfriend and I wanted to try an authentic Temazcal experience while we were in San Jose del Pacifico. We read a few blogs online and Pacos name kept coming up, so we set off to find him.
    The universe was clearly on our side and it was obviously meant to be as after a short walk down a road that could have turned into a whopper of a hike we stopped to ask a local driver if he had heard of Paco and to check we were on the right track, he wasn’t quite sure so while we pow wowed with another local lady in the street a guy was walking past … by crazy Devine timing, it was Paco!?
    He was a very warm guy, his English was a lot better than my Spanish but between us we arranged to meet him the next day and he told the local motor taxi guy to pick us up at 10.30am the following morning from our cabana.
    We honestly didn’t know what to expect but after reading how challenging it was with the heat and the darkness we were slightly apprehensive to say the least.
    We helped Paco build the fire and he talked us through his culture and the traditions of the Temezcal.
    We found Paco to be an extremely caring and genuine guy that carry’s out the ceremonies through the love of his heritage and not as business. The whole way through he checked in to make sure we were doing ok as the Temezcal got hotter.
    He cooked us a lovely veggie meal after which was much needed to re-energise and in our broken language barrier we chatted about his simple and peaceful life and culture which was a far cry from our busy London city life.
    Now I know what to expect from the experience and Paco’s reassurance throughout I would definitely do it again to really relax into it more. I’m very glad we found Paco and got to experience a Mexican tradition 😊

  2. A woman

    Yes people BE CAREFUL – don’t go there! He tried to kiss me and touched me after the so called “ceremony”. I came with a friend, two girls only and the temazcal was not about rituals but more about massage, it wasn’t even warm inside. I’m lucky that he stopped after I said no.

    1. Rose

      I feel so sorry for you. Good you weren’t hurt physically.

  3. José antonio

    Its increíble, how many people are folklorize with the temazcal, and Its more increíble to believe in this dude call Paco, he is a stalker and rapest, in México he is a criminal, be careful with this man!?

  4. Lucci

    Hello Johnny, thank you for sharing this! Did you need to reserve in advance? if so, how and where?

    1. I am also interested. Please let me know more info.

    2. Hi Lucci. No you won’t need to book in advance. Usually if there’s a few people, they will do the ceremony the same day. Or maybe you will need to wait until the next day. But there’s other temezcals that run daily. There’s a few up there, but Paco’s was awesome and you should try and do it with him.

      1. Zoila

        Hello, thank you for sharing your experience. I visited San Jose del Pacifico a couple of years ago, but I did not get to go to this Temazcal with Paco. Where or how can I locate him? I’m planning to go back to Oaxaca in a couple of weeks.

  5. alec

    Hi , it Sound super intense! Could you Tell me how much it cost you?

    1. Hows it going Alec? From memory it was about 250 pesos ($13). Well worth it!!

  6. Charlie

    Just curious, did you partake in the hongos or any other recreational substances before the Temazcal ceremony?

    1. Hell yow, with all that sweat how else could you make it!

    2. Hi Charlie. No, no ‘hongos’ for me before the Temazcal. It was really full on and glad I didn’t have to deal with the mushrooms as well… haha
      But what an amazing experience and something you should try once in your life.

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