The Shrine of Goddess Tubtim

A fertility shrine with a strong focus on the male phallus

Experience

I’ve seen a lot of peculiar shrines in my time, though none with an overly strong focus on the male phallus. Well, that was until the other day. Upon approaching this tucked-away shrine, you are greeted by a garden of clay-children figurines playing and laughing amongst the plants. You will then come across a small spirit house, typically found around Thailand, both in homes and temples alike. With a quick look around, you will very quickly realize you are surrounded by literally hundreds of penis statues They’re everywhere! Some of the penises are small enough to be worn as necklaces, others are the size of small phallic totem poles coming in around 6 feet (180 cm). Some of the penis statues are plain, while others are intricately painted. Some penises have been creatively altered to have feet, or hung from chains, or propped upright, and some are even studded or decorated with ribbons. Some of the penis statues are made of cement, while others are made from good old-fashioned wood (no pun intended). The Shrine of Goddess Tubtim certainly has no shortage of penis statues of every variety.

So what the heck is the connection with the garden of children, the spirit house and the penis fetish? The Shrine of Goddess Tubtim is a fertility shrine. It was erected (that one is too easy) to honour Chao Mae Tubtim, the female fertility goddess. Women of all ages who are typically in the early stages of trying to start a family will pay their respects to Miss Tubtim. They bring with them offerings of white lotus buds & white jasmine flowers, and ask her in return to ensure a happy and healthy child will be conceived. Rumour has it that the success rate is astonishingly high! If the woman’s wish comes true, it is expected that she will return to the shrine with her own penis statue for Goddess Tubtim’s personal collection. That still doesn’t explain the spirit house – well, where else would you think a fertility goddess would want to hang out? There’s a small statue representation of Chao Mae Tubtim found within. Who doesn’t like hanging out with life sized statues of themselves?

Little is known about the origins of how this shrine came to be, or what started the practice of bringing the offerings or penises as thanks. All that is known is that at one point in its existence, the spirit house was constructed by Nai Lert, owner of the neighbouring hotel, for the spirit of Chao Mae Tubtim who was believed to live in the large Sai (Ficus) tree next to the hotel. This was probably to keep the Mae Tubtim happy and to not haunt or torment the hotel’s guests. This attraction is certainly out of character with the impression of the polite nature of Thais. However, these particular statues of phalluses are used as a symbol of good luck and fortune. Given that most of the world’s modern Buddhism has very close ties to Hinduism, not so surprisingly many rituals and practices are actually quite similar. These particular penis statues have their roots (Aussies might find that statement funny) with the Hindu god Shiva. The phalluses, locally known as ‘lingams’, are sold at many markets for protection, or as good luck amulets. In fact, it’s also believed that they can influence the cash flow of a business. You might occasionally find little penises next to cash registers, or even hanging from rearview mirrors in taxis! It would appear Miss Tubtim is not the only one with a penis fetish.

Back to Top

SEE – Photos & Videos

WSE Travel - Tubtim Shrine Bangkok - Male phallus for Goddess Tubtim
The penis statues seemed to rotate between very realistic and very surrealistic from statue to statue
WSE Travel - Tubtim Shrine Bangkok - Mae Chan Tubtim offerings
These penises seemed quite well rooted.
WSE Travel - Tubtim Shrine Bangkok - Chao Mae Tubtim - Penis Shrine
The courtyard around the shrine has penises in every direction
WSE Travel - Tubtim Shrine Bangkok - Penis Statue - bigger than a cat
These two penis statues (which had legs, feet, and penises as well) were huge! How’d they get them here?
WSE Travel - Tubtim Shrine Bangkok - Penis statues - a table full of them
There’s a table full of penises, elephants (?) and old people figurines
WSE Travel - Tubtim Shrine Bangkok - Chao Mae Tubtim - Bangkok Penis Shrine
Marianne was a little overwhelmed by the excessive male phallus!
WSE Travel - Tubtim Shrine Bangkok - Mae Chan Tubtim shrine
The entrance is filled with little children figurines frolicking in the garden
WSE Travel - Tubtim Shrine Bangkok - Fertility offerings - penises for Tubtim
Any place that penises could be stacked up, seemed to have penises stacked up against it!
WSE Travel - Tubtim Shrine Bangkok - Mae Chan Tubtim statue
This is the tiny statue of Mae Chan Tubtim inside her spirit house.

Back to Top

GO – Getting There

Interestingly, the important fertility shrine of Goddess Tubtim is located in the very heart of Bangkok, tucked away behind the very busy Swissotel Nai Lert Hotel, and yet remains quite unknown and off the beaten path to many visitors, even to the guest of the hotel. It seems to really just be known on the down-low, or if you have an in. Well – as always, Where Sidewalks End is happy to be your ‘in’. If you are coming by BTS (Bangkok’s Sky train), you will want to get off at Chit Lom station. Heading for exit 5, you will walk towards Wireless road (aka Wyuthia). Turn right onto wireless, and either take a 2 min taxi or tuk tuk, or simply walk 7-8 mins up the street. n the opposite side of the street you will see the Swissotel. Walking into the hotel, you will pass through the lobby and down the stairs. You can then walk into the hotel’s back court yard, where their large outdoor pool is located. Taking a right upon entering the pool’s yard, you will walk around the pool to the car park area. Again, entering the car park, you will need to take a sharp right. Continue walking out of the carpark and down the little lane. Continue walking straight to the dead end. Here you will find the child filled garden, and of course the pathway to the shrine. You are now entering penis ville.

Back to Top

GO – Getting There

Interestingly, the important fertility shrine of Goddess Tubtim is located in the very heart of Bangkok, tucked away behind the very busy Swissotel Nai Lert Hotel, and yet remains quite unknown and off the beaten path to many visitors, even to the guest of the hotel. It seems to really just be known on the down low, or if you have an in. Well – as always, Where Sidewalks End is happy to be your ‘in’. If you are coming by BTS (Bangkok’s Sky train), you will want to get off at Chit Lom station. Heading for exit 5, you will walk towards Wireless road (aka Wyuthia). Turn right onto wireless, and either take a 2 min taxi or tuk tuk, or simply walk 7-8 mins up the street. n the opposite side of the street you will see the Swissotel. Walking into the hotel, you will pass through the lobby and down the stairs. You can then walk into the hotel’s back court yard, where their large outdoor pool is located. Taking a right upon entering the pool’s yard, you will walk around the pool to the car park area. Again, entering the car park, you will need to take a sharp right. Continue walking out of the carpark and down the little lane. Continue walking straight to the dead end. Here you will find the child filled garden, and of course the pathway to the shrine. You are now entering penis ville.

WSE Travel - The Shrine of Chao Mae Tubtim, Bangkok, Thailand - Map
The Shrine of Chao Mae Tubtim, Bangkok, Thailand – Map

Back to Top

Do – Activities & Attractions

Coming Soon!

Back to Top

WSE Travel - Best of Thailand banner

Stay – Accommodation

Coming Soon!

Back to Top

Eat – Restaurants

Coming Soon!

Back to Top

Time – Seasonality & Schedules

I’m unsure about the hours, as it is really unguarded – my assumption would be, however, similar to regular temple hours, anytime between 7am – 7pm is generally ok – when the sun goes down, it’s usually a no-go.

Back to Top

Safety – Possible risks

Please Note: Travel inherently comes with an element of risk (just like crossing the road does). You are putting yourself in elements that are unfamiliar and foreign to your usual lifestyle and with that, become more susceptible to fall victim those who try to play off those unfamiliar to their local scams. There are also potential dangers in the environments to which you may not be accustomed to.

Please take extra care in travelling, ensure that you have adequate medical insurance (accidents seem to happen when you least expect them), and have let a trusted colleague, family member or friend know your whereabouts and activities.

Where Sidewalks End travel advises you to travel at your own risk, and to be extra aware of your surroundings (without letting it spoiling your time).

Back to Top

Pay – How much does it cost?

Admission is Free. If anyone is asking you for some type of admission, they’re simply trying to have you buy them lunch. Smile, nod, and pretend you don’t understand. This is a public shrine.

Back to Top

Responsible Travel – Best Practices

Coming Soon!

Back to Top

Reality Check – Be Aware

Considering the location, this is quite an easy attraction to go check out. The hotel didn’t seem to mind us just walking straight through their lobby, past their pool and into their car park. In fact, I don’t think they even noticed. It’s not a huge shrine or attraction, and I would think 15 mins would be ample to wander around and explore all the elements, penises, shrines and all. Depending on if you plan on performing your own fertility rituals with lotus and jasmine, you may need an extra 5 mins or so, but you could easily squeeze this into a morning or afternoon without any problem. In fact, it’s only a 15 mins walk away from Lumphini park, so if you have any plans on visiting Lumphini, it wouldn’t be a bad way of maximizing your time and getting in an extra dose of culture without too much effort. I didn’t find the shrine mind-blowing, but I certainly enjoy getting as much of a cultural experience as I can with where I am, so I’d say this is worth the visit if you’re exploring that part of the city – or if you just really like penis.

Back to Top

JOIN US! WSE Travel Packages

This sounds like quite the adventure, right? We thought so too! Though we realize it can be pretty intimidating to get out there into the world on your own, especially when travelling to some of these off-the-beaten-path locations. We love it when our readers give it a shot and try it for themselves! In fact, please leave us feedback if you do!! If trying something โ€˜thisโ€™ adventurous on your own is just a bit outside of your comfort zone, WSE Travel is here to help!

Click on this link for our โ€˜Choose Your Own Adventureโ€™ Tours โ€“ packages that are highly personalized and tailored at your request.

Back to Top

Have you ever been to a fertility shrine before? Have you ever been to an attraction, or even religious place, which had such a strong focus on sex or the male (or female) phallus before? Please feel free to share your stories and opinions in the comment section below!

Like This Post? Pin it for later!

WSE Travel - Male phallus for Goddess Tubtim
The penis statues seemed to rotate between very realistic and very surrealistic from statue to statue

18 Responses

  1. So, Ian, where’s the best place in Bangkok to buy a wooden penis? I don’t think your research on this topic is done yet, not by any means!

    1. hehe – actually, I’ve seen them in a number of places Barbara. Only the small ones though. Necklaces, paper weights, etc. They can be found in most open-air markets, especially around Chattuchak Market! I have yet to discover the source of the 6 foot tall penis statues, mind you. I’ll report back once I find them for you ๐Ÿ˜‰

  2. Ok, I am all confused about Tubtim now…I used to buy whole fish in Chiang Mai that were called Tubtim to steam or fry. But it’s also the name of the goddess of fertility? Were the folks in the market laughing at me because I was buying a fertility fish?

    1. Hahaha – That story sounds fishy to me! That’s too funny. I’m not sure of which fish it is, but perhaps a slightly different tone, or maybe one of those lost in translation cultural situations?

  3. Who knew that doing my research on your site would bring me to an article about a penis shrine? Now you know I’ll have to seek it out when I get to Bangkok one day! Definitely a photogenic spot LOL!

  4. Hey Ian,

    Finally I’ve got an answer about my question: “Why so many penises while in Thailand?”. We saw them first in Bangkok, in the opened air market, small ones for sale (keychains, neckalces etc). I said to myself that;s a bit wired to show up with a keychain like that in the real life.
    After, we went to Chiang Rai to the Black House and again, we saw so many of them….I couldn;t understand why. I felt lik they were a simbol of masculin power, verility.
    I also had a dark feeling about the Black House, like some rituals were happening there years ago.

    So, thanks for illuminating me :p

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.