Lugo, Spain – A Roman-built town in Galicia

Discover charming town is on the Camino de Santiago

Experience

One of the last towns on the Camino de Santiago before reaching the holy grail of Santiago de Compostela, Lugo is often overlooked by travellers who either miss it out completely or spend a night recuperating here rather than enjoying this small city’s charms.

I spent almost a year in Lugo, and I fell in love with the place. It can be hard to remember that you’re in the 21st century here, thanks to superbly preserved Roman Walls, viaducts, and bridges. The sublime gastronomy made from the freshest ingredients will get foodies’ tongues wagging, and you can even bring the family here to enjoy the festivals of San Froilan and Arde Lucus.

Influence from Roman and Celtic cultures can still be seen in the town today, no time more so than Día de las Mozas (Women’s Day) during San Froilan, where traditionally, women from the surrounding villages came into the city to find a husband, or in the traditional dance and music from the city, where the gaita (bagpipes) are used to make wonderfully haunting melodies.

The city is set against the backdrop of breath-taking landscapes of Galicia, the greenest region in Spain. The surrounding countryside offers excellent hiking, quaint and mysterious small villages, and hidden bodegas just waiting to welcome you in to sample their wines.

Spending a night here simply is not enough to enjoy everything that Lugo has to offer. Instead, stay here for a long weekend (or a whole year, as I did) to really get a feel for this unique, little city.

What is the history of Lugo, Spain?

Lugo originated as the Roman settlement of Lucus Augusti. Its Roman walls, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage, are now accessible to the public as a walkway. The city saw occupation by different groups and was eventually recaptured by King Alfonso III of Asturias and Leon in the 10th century.

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SEE – Photos & Videos

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GO – Getting There

Lugo doesn’t have its own airport, and it can be quite tricky to get to. The closest airports are Santiago de Compostela and A Coruña. Both are around the same distance away, but Santiago de Compostela is more convenient since there is a direct bus connection.

If you’re travelling from Madrid, a bus is a much cheaper option than the train and it will get you there just as quickly.

For those who drive, it’s a good idea to rent a car when visiting the city. The surrounding countryside is stunning, but it can be difficult to reach on public transport.

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Do – Activities & Attractions

Step back in time and walk on the only complete Roman Wall in the world.

La Muralla, as it’s called by the locals, is a reason alone to visit Lugo. The fantastically preserved wall dates back 17 centuries and completely surrounds the historical centre of the town. Doing laps of the wall is a great way to observe city life from afar and take in the views of the Galician countryside in the distance. At night, it’s beautifully lit and you can get some excellent pictures of this UNESCO world heritage site, which is twinned with the Great Wall of China.

Become a Roman or Celt at Arde Lucus, Spain’s biggest festival.

Surprisingly, Lugo is home to Spain’s biggest festival, Arde Lucus (Lugo burns). This festival now attracts people from all over the country, deciding if their allegiance lies with Romans or Celts, and spending the whole weekend in their chosen costumes.

During the festival, there are chariot races, slave auctions, and pop-up forts in the city. It really must be seen to be believed! Arde Lucus usually takes place in the middle of June and is always on a weekend.

Indulge in traditional Galician food and wine.

Lugo is famous throughout Spain for its food, and the city is a great place to taste traditional Galician dishes such as pulpo a la gallega (octopus with paprika, olive oil, and boiled potatoes), empanadas (Galician pies filled with cod, tuna, or meat), and churrasco (a plate with several different cuts of pork or beef).

The best thing about Lugo is that during kitchen open hours, every drink is accompanied by a free tapa from the kitchen, and a pincho. Be careful though, after a few weeks or months here, you might notice your waist size has increased…

Take a stroll along the Rio Rato.

It would be a stretch to say that there’s hustle and bustle in Lugo, but sometimes it’s nice to just get out into nature. The Rio Rato is one of the tributaries of the Miño, and is within walking distance of the city centre. You can follow this pleasant stream all the way from underneath Lugo’s Roman Aqueduct to where the two rivers meet. It’s a great place to while away a sunny weekend afternoon.

Visit Lugo’s 12th century UNESCO World Heritage Cathedral

Another UNESCO World Heritage site, a church existed on this site from 755AD, but the construction of the current cathedral began in the 12th century. It’s a Romanesque building, subtly fused with a mixture of Baroque, Neoclassical, and Gothic elements. The cathedral is right next to a ramp which takes you up onto the Roman Wall.

Cross the River Miño on the Roman bridge.

No longer in its original guise, Lugo’s Roman bridge has been rebuilt many times. A steep walk down from the city centre, it’s a great place to spot wildlife on the river such as herons, and maybe even otters if you’re lucky. Like the Roman Wall, it’s beautifully lit and you can get some great shots of the bridge at night.

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Stay – Accommodation

Sercotel EsteOeste 

Sercotel EsteOeste in Lugo serves a daily continental buffet breakfast with juice, fresh pastries, cheese, and fruits, while a variety of dining options can be found nearby. Located just a short walk from Lugo Cathedral and close to the Roman Walls, the hotel offers easy access to the city’s historic landmarks. The Congress and Exhibition Center is only 1.1 miles away, and A Coruña Airport is 55 miles from the property. Highly rated for its central location and attentive staff, Sercotel EsteOeste is well placed for both business and leisure stays in Lugo.

Check Rates and Availability here!

Hostal ALBA Lugo

Hostal ALBA Lugo offers a central stay just a short walk from Lugo Cathedral and the historic Roman Walls, with the Congress and Exhibition Centre only 2 km away. The property features convenient amenities such as a lift, electric vehicle charging station, bike hire, tour desk, and luggage storage. Guests appreciate thoughtful touches like city views, parquet floors, and streaming services. Known for its excellent service and helpful staff, Hostal ALBA Lugo is well-rated for its location and ease of access to the city’s main attractions.

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Mercure Lugo Centro

Mercure Lugo Centro enjoys a prime location less than 1 km from Lugo Cathedral and just an 11-minute walk from the Roman Walls, with the Congress and Exhibition Centre also nearby. Guests can relax in the hotel’s garden, terrace, or bar, while a daily buffet breakfast and on-site coffee shop add to the comfort of the stay. Well-regarded for its spacious rooms and attentive staff, Mercure Lugo Centro provides a welcoming base for exploring the city.

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Eurostars Gran Hotel Lugo

Eurostars Gran Hotel Lugo offers 4-star accommodations in the heart of the city, just a short walk from Lugo Cathedral and the historic Roman Walls. Located near Plaza de Lugo and only 0.9 miles from the Congress and Exhibition Centre, the hotel is well positioned for both business and leisure travel. Guests appreciate the convenient location and helpful staff, while nearby airports in A Coruña and Santiago de Compostela are within a 90-minute drive, making access easy for travelers exploring the region.

Check Rates and Availability here!

Hotel Mendez Nuñez

Hotel Méndez Núñez enjoys a prime location in the heart of Lugo, just steps from the city’s Roman ruins and main attractions. This family-run hotel blends historic charm with modern comfort and features a rooftop bar on the 6th floor, offering sweeping views of the city center. Guests can also explore the in-house exhibition room showcasing local artwork. With the train station just a 2-minute walk away, Hotel Méndez Núñez is a welcoming base for discovering the history and culture of this ancient Roman-walled town.

Check Rates and Availability here!

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Eat – Restaurants

As mentioned above, Lugo has some of the best gastronomy in the whole of Spain, and there are few international restaurants here. During San Froilan, try the casetas, where you’ll pass by octopus being boiled in massive pots in the open air.

During the rest of the year, A Caseta de Barra, Cinco Vigas, Petisco, and Aurora do Carballiño are some of the top picks for dinner. However, you can’t go far wrong in the Viños area of the old town, where most restaurants will guarantee you a tasty meal.

If you tire of comida gallega, head out of the historic centre to Itadakimas, a fairly new Japanese restaurant which offers great sushi.

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Time – Seasonality & Schedules

The two best times to go to Lugo are during the main festivals – San Froilan, which runs from the 4th – 12th October, or Arde Lucus, which is usually in mid-June. The city really comes alive during these times. If you want more peace and quiet, avoid the festivals and travel in July or August, when the weather is good and there’s less chance of heavy rain.

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Safety – Possible risks

There are very few safety risks for travellers in Lugo. It has the feel of a large village, and crime is very rare.

Please Note: Travel inherently comes with an element of risk (just like crossing the road does). You are putting yourself in elements that are unfamiliar and foreign to your usual lifestyle and with that, become more susceptible to fall victim those who try to play off those unfamiliar to their local scams. There are also potential dangers in the environments to which you may not be accustomed to.

Please take extra care in travelling, ensure that you have adequate medical insurance (accidents seem to happen when you least expect them), and have let a trusted colleague, family member or friend know your whereabouts and activities.

Where Sidewalks End travel advises you to travel at your own risk, and to be extra aware of your surroundings (without letting it spoiling your time).

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Pay – How much does it cost?

Lugo is one of the cheapest cities in Spain. Most restaurants offer menu del día for lunch for about €9-12, and you should expect to pay around €1.50 for a caña (small beer) and €1.10 for a coffee. Remember, during serving hours it’s customary to receive a tapa and a pincho with each drink. Accommodation is fairly cheap too.

The only setback cost wise is actually getting here. At the time of writing, you can only fly directly from the UK to Galicia from London airports, and Edinburgh during the Summer months. The flights are generally more expensive than to more recognised tourist destinations.

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Responsible Travel – Best Practices

Lugo is a very relaxed town, although at religious sites such as the Cathedral, you should dress appropriately. There are a lot of locally made products available, especially when it comes to food. Shop locally so your money is invested back into Galicia.

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Reality Check – Be Aware

So, when you hear Spain, you think of sun, sea, and sand, right? Well, firstly we can rule out sea and sand as it’s about an hour to the nearest beach. The weather in Lugo is very unpredictable, and it doesn’t have a Mediterranean climate. The weather has more in common than the UK than the Costa del Sol or Mallorca, and there’s no time of year that you should travel without a raincoat. That said, the mercury surpasses 30 degrees in the Summer.

Also, because it’s a less touristy area, English isn’t as widely spoken as in other parts of Spain. The regional language, Galician, sounds like a mix of Spanish and Portuguese, but a learning a few words of Spanish will enable you to get by just fine.

Additional Resources

http://www.ardelucus.com – Event guide to Arde Lucus.

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/987 – Unesco guide to the Roman Walls.

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JOIN US! WSE Travel Packages

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Follow this link for our ‘Choose Your Own Adventure’ Tours – packages that are highly personalized and tailored at your request.

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Have you ever been to a city that had a really unique historical or cultural feature? Where was it and what made it so unique?

If you visit England during your Europe trip, be sure to look into the food scene of the East End!

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